I am accustomed to having a solid, stable, powerful machine in the shop. As expected I had no issues.
You needed two guys to put it in the back of a truck. The two cast-iron wings have large, open slots that make it easier to clamp accessory fences or featherboards to the tabletop.
While its not used hard or everyday its a fantastic saw and I doubt you could do better at twice the price! At that time that is what they called portable. I can rest a dime on edge and place a marble on the table, turn the saw on, run an 8' length of red oak through it and neither roll or fall over.
When I first turned on the 15 amp motor I was surprised by how powerful the motor felt. As shown above, the rails are set up for a rip capacity of 12 in.
Unlike a standard splitter, a riving knife moves up and down with the blade, staying closer to it and better preventing kickback. The riving knife, blade guards, and pawls, did their job with no binding or hampering of the movement of the wood through the machine.
The standard insert plate and an accessory dado insert plate are sturdy metal castings, but the plastic zero-clearance throat plates are flimsy.
Having a powerful motor, a solid fence, and a solid stable stand, will make a considerable difference on the job site. The accuracy of the tape measure was right on. I decided on the Ridgid R Tablesaw after all. It also angles with the blade, meaning it can stay on the saw for those cuts. The high-profile riving knife, which includes a blade cover and pawls, was easy to remove and replace.
This is no longer available in the US however I travel to Canada quite often and its still regularly stocked at Home Depot up there. The tilting of the blade was accomplished by taking the pressure off the tilt lock mechanism. Two things immediately caught my attention: After 30 minutes and the store closing the manager finally caved, allowed me to use the coupon and I walked out paying just As anticipated I did not encounter any issues with cutting plywood, MDF, or melamine.
The raising and lowering of the blade was also smooth. You can then either push on the spring loaded adjustment ring in far enough to clear the gears allowing you to swing and tilt the motor and blade assembly smooth and easily.
There is a crank that has a small orange lock knob on its face that will unlock it so you can raise or lower to adjust the blade height by cranking it left or right.
It preformed just as expected. Get woodworking tips, expert advice and special offers in your inbox Sign Up. That was 25 years ago and since then I have had a few table saws and a few portable table saws. The setup of the saw stand was fairly quick and easy since the parts were marked clearly with letters. The solid stand in combination with the heavy duty saw offers up a very stable platform to help it stay in place while cutting.
For the most part, the factory setup was right on out of the box.
All the accessories including the blade guard system, the push stick, the mitre and the blade wrenches ca n all be stored on-board the saw. I think they called it a portable bench table saw. In order to change the blade or change positions of the riving knife you will have to remove the pawls, blade guard, and table top insert, and then move the riving knife lock lever to the up position.
Consumers should stop using the saw and call Ridgid between 8 a.
The sweet sound of those chippers humming through the wood was music to my ears and the smell of fresh cut wood sent me into a woodworkers high. I started off with softer hardwoods, working my up to the harder woods. Removing them is not recommended. The solid wheels make moving it around on any surface seem almost effortless.
I've turned it around, drilled 3 new holes in the CI and mounted it to the right side of the table. I still run the tablesaw on and, with the Diablo blade, it cuts everything just fine however I will be upgrading to at some ridgid r4512 miter slot size. Use a ripping blade for ripping and crosscut blade for cro sscuts to get the best results.
If the motor has to work too hard it will add additional stress reducing its life span.
The aluminum rip fence locks down at both ends, and it was sturdy, accurate, and slid smoothly on the rails. The power switch has a large paddle handle easy to turn offand the switch can be mounted anywhere in a T-slot along the front fence rail. The standard, vibration-prone V-belt drive has been replaced on this saw with a flat, automotive-style poly V-belt running on machined steel pulleys, which reduces noise and vibration.
I recently gave it a test drive in the Fine Woodworking shop. To date its worked ok however I'm upgrading to a dedicated DC system and it'll be delegated to smaller power hand tools and general shop vac duties.
Once I had it in my shop I unpacked it, set it up and started producing that sweet essence of sawdust. Out of the box, the fence was very close to parallel to the blade, but fine-tuning the alignment was a hunt-and-peck process. The Mitre gauge slid smoothly and was easily adjusted to the angle you desire.
The smell of burning rubber filled the air. The blade-tilt and height controls worked smoothly, and one nice feature—not seen even on much pricier saws—is a blade-angle lock on the front trunnion.
Apparently the blade arbor can break when the saw is equipped with a dado set. I could set the fence perfectly to what I wanted by just lining the indicator on the mark. The top was almost perfectly flat, with only a few 0. On the downside, granite is more brittle than cast iron, making it susceptible to chipping if, for example, you were to drop the rip fence on it.
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