Is this a structural concern? Didn't see them in Aircraft Spruce. When you get the new bolt, it will mike around. To summarize, to get at the rivet row in the spar near the center of the wing, you either need a long bucking bar or drill out the rivets along the trailing edge and open up the whole skin. This is not a job that I would even consider taking on myself.
Doc Moore Doc I certainly agree with those other guys but I'm wondering something. I hesitate to guesstimate the man hours either way as I have not done those jobs for at least 15 years. The mechanic doing my annual is pretty picky about certain things. It is best installed with the surface off with contact cement.
It takes a little technique to get everything concentric and neat looking and you have to be careful not to accidentally drop the disc into the hole when dealing with holes on top. Montigue, What is the best way to repair a "wrinkled" rear wing attachment point? Sorry I don't know what happened to that letter, maybe there is another one out there. Don and Helo Editor's note: I had a Temco letter, detailing limits for the wrinkles.
The earlier serial numbers, like your N have a 3 piece web, a left and a right, from the fuselage outboard and a center portion which is actually a fuselage bulkhead. Could you please give me a rough estimate of man-hours required either way?
These buttons are a bit more flush than the original rubber ones. Flying off a grass field well, some of the year necessitated closing the hole to keep out grass, dirt, and bugs. I started some new medication last week which I hope will improve my condition. I'd like to hear ur expert opinion on this problem of mine.
Thankfully, he took my advice and put a stall strip back on. Well, they usta have 'em at Swift Parts! They form a shallow dimple, and for improved appearance I make an aluminum disc from thin sheet to fill the hole, using the tape to hold it in place.
Bill Merwin's query about rubber "button" grommets. I have flown big engined Swifts with closed slots and think they might gain 2 or 3 mph. On the left wing there is a slight movement.
I am in search of a set if such a thing still exists or ideas from other Swifters of how ingenious they have been to address this situation. I found with both planes, mine open slots, other closed slots, that aileron response was good down into the stall buffet.
With them off, tape up the gap between the wing and center section, the reinstall the gap strip. I would get it fixed. If you do replace the bolt stry them in the wing attach fittings first. We had a guy in this area who has a plastic molding company and he gave us a quote which was pretty high.
The later airplanes had about a 12" fitting. Should we rivet as far as my arm can reach to buck the rivets, and then do the rest with blind rivets? They felt that the slot was simpler. Keoki Gray Globe swift wing slots Yes it might be easier to change the whole center section, but maybe the spar cap angles are all that is serviceable on the replacement.
The problem with them is that the access hole must not be irregular in shape or they are vibrate loose. I think I have some bolts, if you have trouble getting them I could borrow them to you until you get some. DON'T ream out the fittings.
It's quite a ways into the wing to get myself into to buck the rivets. My Swift has access holes in the top and bottom of the wing where rubber "button" grommets were used to cover the hole. On painted ones there may be a problem of peeling the paint when removing as the adhesive holds pretty well. Is this air pressure in the wing making those strips fly up?
I didn't see any detectable difference in that respect. It has been said the slots were installed as handles to drag the plane around on the ground. It was also one of the first all-metal aircraft available for civilian pilots. Years ago I got some custom made stainless steel hole covers that are flat and have a small access hole for an Allen wrench to install them.
Thanks for the info on reskinning the wing! Of course, it's possible your wing and centersection fittings may have worn a thousandth or two in 50 years. The sequence would be: The bolts are all AN-6's with the exception of 1 AN-5 on each fitting. Fischer Mark, The later Swifts, made after about Julyhad a one-piece spar web.
They should tap in freely, not have to be driven in with a large hammer! Will it impact resale? Intermediate builder; intermediate pilot Wingspan: Many thanks for the numbers, Jared and the help Jim! If yours is wrinkled it is probably in the wheel well area. I called my A.
Someday I'll be there. The planes with the slots closed seemed to fly fine. The bolt should fit tight but freely in the hole. The cowl comes prepainted in matching paint and is also held in place by magnets. What I looked for when I flew it was to check aileron response at stall.
The top beaded skins 2. On the last skin you need to shoot the rivets in the spar first, then close up working aft along one of the ribs, then work inboard or outboard and finish up along one of the end ribs.
My grandfather had taken your advice and sent off for those oversized rivets about two weeks ago.
I did not separate the fuselage at sta. If it is too tight, good! Do you know a shop, a good one that can disassemble a Swift wing and inspect them including the spar and reskin!!
If replaced should I turn down the bolts to fit or slightly enlarge the bolt hole win land casino queretaro the attachment area? Torque the nut to 40 ft.
If the slots are closed, it is harder for two people to each grab a wing and move the plane.